Ask Dethroner: What Is A “White Tie Affair?”

Q. The Western world is a’twitter over Queen Elizabeth II’s visit to the White House which precipitates the only “white tie” event of Bush’s presidential tenure. What is a “white tie affair,” exactly?

A. A “white tie” event is the ultimate in formality, eclipsing even the more common “black tie” event in courtly protocol.

While a “black tie” event means a man must wear a tuxedo—or at the very least a black suit and tie, depending on how ballsily one might flaunt convention—a white tie event predicates a coat with tails. This means the basic uniform will include a full evening tailcoat, a white shirt, matching black pants, and black, patent leather shoes at a minimum. (And of course, a white bow tie.)

Not just any shirt will do, of course; you’ll want to purchase a shirt specifically tailored for the outfit, possibly with a separate, button-on collar. Cummerbunds are verboten. Instead, a white vest or “waistcoat” is the default. Like a black tie tuxedo, the pants will traditionally have a satin stripe down the side.

Expressing your personal style in a white tie get-up is generally frowned upon, but a simple flower in your lapel is usually welcome. Focus instead of the fit of your clothing. If you must add accessories, white gloves, silk scarves, top hats, and canes are all appropriate, but only if you can wear them without drawing undue attention on yourself. A man in white tie garb is meant to serve as reflection point to his companion’s evening dress.

If you are not a member of an imperialist Western state, it is also appropriate to wear your national costume, such as a kimono or kilt. Full military dress is also appropriate.

If you find yourself invited to a white tie affair and are in a bit of panic about it, find a reputable tuxedo rental shop who can help you put together your outfit. You will still want to get a shirt tailored, if you can afford to, although I won’t look down on you if you don’t want to spend the money to have a whole outfit sewn just for you. White tie occasions are a remnant of our less socialist past and, while romantic, are not the sort of thing to be ashamed of not attending regularly.

How should you act at a white tie event? Just as you would at any other time: like Fred Astaire.