Comments on: Working with Polyurethane http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/ Where every man is king. Sat, 22 Nov 2008 02:31:46 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.2 By: PAUL http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85064 PAUL Mon, 25 Jun 2007 00:11:06 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85064 james poly dries from the outside to the inside - you are going to have to divide let's say a full 1/4 inch (the thickness of a bottle cap - maybe) into about (to be mathmatical) about 8 to 16 coats - don't worry about bubbles if you do - buy a pistol and you'll solve your problem quicker james poly dries from the outside to the inside - you are going to have to divide let’s say a full 1/4 inch (the thickness of a bottle cap - maybe) into about (to be mathmatical) about 8 to 16 coats - don’t worry about bubbles if you do - buy a pistol and you’ll solve your problem quicker

]]> By: James http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85030 James Sat, 23 Jun 2007 02:40:19 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85030 One I've been thinking about doing is a bar covered in bottle caps from various beers, the rough plan is to pour down a thick layer and then set the caps into it, from there, keep adding layers or one thick layer if I can do it with no bugs, leaves, or bubbles. Anyone have any ideas on how to pull this off? think the best thing to do is a test run with a small area, table top size. any ideas on how to pull this off would be great not to mention I need to drink more bottle beer, ever since I got the kegerator the number of caps has slowed way down One I’ve been thinking about doing is a bar covered in bottle caps from various beers, the rough plan is to pour down a thick layer and then set the caps into it, from there, keep adding layers or one thick layer if I can do it with no bugs, leaves, or bubbles. Anyone have any ideas on how to pull this off? think the best thing to do is a test run with a small area, table top size.

any ideas on how to pull this off would be great

not to mention I need to drink more bottle beer, ever since I got the kegerator the number of caps has slowed way down

]]> By: PAUL http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85029 PAUL Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:19:16 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85029 poly is wonderful - after it dries - very light 00 steel wool to take the shine away and bubbles if you put it on poorly, then recoat. Do it until you are happy - then the last coat will be your last coat. There is Gloss, semi-gloss and flat - your choice Anytime there is a problem - steel wool 00 - and even if it's a spot - hit it and it will blend poly is wonderful poly is wonderful - after it dries - very light 00 steel wool to take the shine away and bubbles if you put it on poorly, then recoat. Do it until you are happy - then the last coat will be your last coat. There is Gloss, semi-gloss and flat - your choice

Anytime there is a problem - steel wool 00 - and even if it’s a spot - hit it and it will blend

poly is wonderful

]]> By: matt. http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85019 matt. Fri, 22 Jun 2007 17:00:24 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85019 Cut the poly 1:1 with denatured alcohol. It goes on smoother, dries quicker, and is generally easier to deal with. The down side is that you are actually only putting on half the poly with each coat. So you'll have to sand it with some 320 and hit it with a tack cloth and do it all over again. The good news is that it dries in about an hour and you won't have the issues with puddles, ridges, and insects because it isn't as thick as straight poly and dries super fast. You can also save money on brushes since you can apply it with shop towels (either cloth or lint free paper - like the blue ones). good luck! Cut the poly 1:1 with denatured alcohol. It goes on smoother, dries quicker, and is generally easier to deal with.

The down side is that you are actually only putting on half the poly with each coat. So you’ll have to sand it with some 320 and hit it with a tack cloth and do it all over again.

The good news is that it dries in about an hour and you won’t have the issues with puddles, ridges, and insects because it isn’t as thick as straight poly and dries super fast.

You can also save money on brushes since you can apply it with shop towels (either cloth or lint free paper - like the blue ones).

good luck!

]]> By: Doug http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85012 Doug Fri, 22 Jun 2007 15:41:05 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85012 Like tim said, spread 'em out to dry and you're fine. Then you can toss them in the regular trash. Since I'm most often doing projects in the evening, I usually let mine sit overnight and throw them in the garbage the next morning. Like tim said, spread ‘em out to dry and you’re fine. Then you can toss them in the regular trash. Since I’m most often doing projects in the evening, I usually let mine sit overnight and throw them in the garbage the next morning.

]]> By: tim http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85011 tim Fri, 22 Jun 2007 15:38:42 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85011 Oops, reading further in that thread, it's not the evaporation that causes the heat, it's the rapid oxidation. 6 posts down "Marc" has some great info. Oops, reading further in that thread, it’s not the evaporation that causes the heat, it’s the rapid oxidation. 6 posts down “Marc” has some great info.

]]> By: tim http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85010 tim Fri, 22 Jun 2007 15:36:24 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85010 Here's a thread with some info on spontaneous combustion: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/archive/index.php/t-7707.html Basically, rapid evaporation creates heat. Poly (and lots of other things) is flammable. Crumpled up piles of rags (or even single crumpled rags) don't let that heat dissipate, and it can build up to the point of combustion. If you let the rag dry out in a flat state, in a well-ventilated area (which you probably want to do anyway just because of the stink), you're probably fine. Here’s a thread with some info on spontaneous combustion:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/archive/index.php/t-7707.html

Basically, rapid evaporation creates heat. Poly (and lots of other things) is flammable. Crumpled up piles of rags (or even single crumpled rags) don’t let that heat dissipate, and it can build up to the point of combustion.

If you let the rag dry out in a flat state, in a well-ventilated area (which you probably want to do anyway just because of the stink), you’re probably fine.

]]> By: chase3x http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85009 chase3x Fri, 22 Jun 2007 15:11:19 +0000 http://dethroner.com/2007/06/22/working-with-polyurethane/#comment-85009 Once the poly is dry, the fire risk drops to nil. Paint store said to leave empty buckets open to dry, then toss them in the trash. Advice may vary, depending on local disposal regs. Ultra fine sanding and tack cloth between coats will build you a terrific shine. Do consider a quality brush. Or perhaps a disposable foam brush. Poly's put on floors with a strange sheep's wool mop head thingy, fyi. And for touchups, get a can of spray polyurethane. Once the poly is dry, the fire risk drops to nil.

Paint store said to leave empty buckets open to dry, then toss them in the trash. Advice may vary, depending on local disposal regs.

Ultra fine sanding and tack cloth between coats will build you a terrific shine. Do consider a quality brush. Or perhaps a disposable foam brush. Poly’s put on floors with a strange sheep’s wool mop head thingy, fyi. And for touchups, get a can of spray polyurethane.

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