For the vast majority of coffee consumers, coffee is first and foremost a form of fuel. It’s not expected to taste very good unless it’s hidden inside several hundred calories of added fat and sugar. At best it’s seen as a warm and comforting fix, a frequent ritual, an addictive excuse to step away from the cubicle (not unlike cigarettes).
So assuming we’re willing to agree that coffee can taste good - properly prepared and largely unadulterated (and I’ll insist that it can) - why don’t more folks drink good coffee? At the risk of this turning into a rant, I’ll outline a few notions after the jump and solicit your theories.
The familiar
Like the proverbial frog in the kettle of boiling water, people acclimate to all sorts of mediocrity. One look at the state of popular culture or our government proves that. The thing you drink every day becomes a habit, a custom - all the more so because it happens to be physically addictive.
Too much misinformation
The giant megacorps ply their trade by finding ever more clever ways to turn the cheapest grade coffee beans into something they can market as gourmet. “Fresh roasted” doesn’t fit their business model, nor does “artisan roasting” nor does “paying farmers a living wage” or “sourcing excellent coffees”. A mind-numbing array of opaque brands, absurd packaging options, and fictitious claims fill the aisles and the airwaves. Educated customers most certainly don’t fit their business model.
A good cup is hard to find
In some parts of the country just finding coffee that was brewed within the hour and isn’t horribly weak or tasting of cardboard is a challenge. And what passes for espresso in many shops should have you calling a hazmat team. You can’t long for great coffee if you’ve never gotten close to it.
The landscape of low expectations
Given how bad to mediocre most coffee is, its no surprise that when your neighbor Dave pulls out some oily, dark-roasted Kona blend from his freezer that he picked up at the airport in Hawaii last year, it seems like the summit has been reached. Any cup that doesn’t taste like battery acid, wet dog, or licking an ashtray can start to seem good if thats all you’ve ever had.
The technical hurdle
This is the piece that most of my posts here so far have focused on. Coffee brewing is a very simple process made unnecessarily difficult by bad and overpriced equipment. An old hand-cranked Zassenhaus grinder and a kettle of hot water can give you a cup of cowboy coffee that would beat the pants and undies off just about any fancier gear, given the right beans. But hand crank grinding is an inconvenience and good burr grinders come with some sticker shock. The array of pricey bell’d and whistle’d coffee brewers that still stumble at the basic task of giving your coffee grounds a dose of the right temperature water is saddening.
The issue of price
The truth is great coffees don’t cost significantly more at retail than most mediocre coffees. Compare the price per ounce of the stale, factory roasted, “gourmet”, commodity grade arabica lining the grocery store shelves with that of fresh roasted, ethically sourced coffee from one of the more prestigious North American microroasters. As Mark Pendergrast points out in his recent Wine Spectator article, even the most expensive beans you can buy still yield a per cup cost of only $2.50.
The snob factor
In spite of great coffee being priced within reach, to many it still carries repellently highfalutin airs. Some of it comes from the way many coffee companies have marketed their wares, applying slapdash the language of exclusivity and connoisseurship. Some of it is spillover from the preciousness of the Star*ucks menu with its made up euro terminology or the now unshakable cultural association of lattes with stereotypical yuppiedom.
“Comic book guy” syndrome
For those of us on the fringe of the fringe of this giant industry, participants in what some are calling the third wave of coffee, there is a real danger of coming off as arrogant. Both professionals and coffee geeks alike walk a fine line when pimping unique coffees or dispensing advice. Stepping over that line into “comic book guy” territory seems irresistible to some - the language of expertise falling easily from the tongue regardless of the level of knowledge. The subjective nature of taste has to be given consideration, avoiding confusing peculiar personal preferences with gospel truths.
It’s hard not to come off like a zealot when you’ve been touched in the swimsuit area by the coffee angel. In another long-winded future post I hope to better communicate what underpins my enthusiasm for this taken-for-granted beverage (though I’d really prefer to just make you all a cup of great coffee). I hope my writing here this week comes off more as a walkthrough and cheat codes for the coffee levels I’ve already beaten than merely a lot of coffee pedantry.
What’s not to love about great coffee (asks the coffee obsessive)? I’d like to hear your thoughts.
Preach on, brother Tonx!
This should all be published as a book once you’re through this week!
Your posts have all been well thought and well written, and I thank you for sharing them. You have an excellent easily digestible approach towards writing about this thing so many of us love.
I’m not quite as far along the journey as I should be at my age, having only truly discovered coffee in the last year, but on the quest to freshness, a roaster and greens will be delivered to tomorrow and with it a few more notches on my belt towards excellence in the cup.
I agree with your posts and do think that good coffee is very hard to find. But for me (the type of person that has a minimal setup), what is the bare minimum I can do to get good coffee? Should I invest in a grinder, better coffee maker, better beans, and if I have to do all of the above, where are the articles on how to pick the beans (and from where) and on which coffee maker to use since you have so perfectly covered the setup of grinders?
I was with you until:
“Like the proverbial frog in the kettle of boiling water, people acclimate to all sorts of mediocrity. One look at the state of popular culture or our government proves that.”
Why the political cracks? Aren’t there enough of those all over the Internet already? Why can’t you just write about coffee?
He’s true though, and its not just Americans but everyone in the world, everyone settles for everything, regardless of what it is.
“He’s true though, …”
Well, that’s his and apparently you opinions. I thought the thread was about coffee. I take mine without rhetoric.
Sugar? Sugar in the raw? Brown sugar? Creamer? Half and Half? Milk? Black?
How about the stuff that goes into the coffees? Is there a “good”, “better”, “best”?
Oh man, reading this reminds me why I (mostly) quit drinking coffee. Once upon a time I worked with people who drank only Kona and Jamacian Blue Mountain. We all thought we knew what we were doing with our blade grinder and coffemaker, but from reading this I can see we were so so wrong.
Now I’m trapped in the “office” and all I have to choose from is 25 cent per cup “wet dog” from down the hall or 1 dollar swill from the cafeteria.
I chose to quit rather than submit to drinking bad coffee.
You brought us to the peak with that article. Now tell us, oh wise one, how we do it right?
People also miss out on the whole ritual aspect of coffee too–it can be fun. I’m probably in the category of zealots you reference, not only liking the taste of it, but also exploring strange preparation. I own, and use, a pair of Pasquini dosing burr grinders, a Salvatore semi-auto espresso machine, a Cona vacuum rig, a French Press, a Turkish ibrik, and a Toddy coffee maker. Exposing people to the fun of it can convert ‘em too…
The one method of preparation I’ve also wanted to explore further but can’t find any information on–even in the day and age of the internet–is Dutch cold process coffee. I was at a coffee house in Japan where they had these fantastic machines making cold process drip coffee. Big reservoir of water on top that dripped (at a rate of a deciliter/10 hours) into a cylinder packed with coffee. The extract would drip out below and get served in tiny quantities with a large dose of cold milk. Wonderful stuff. And amusing to watch too, since the drip from the reservoir would be caught by a little gold spoon on a fulcum that, being weighted down by the drop of water, would swing down and gently deposit it on the top of the packed coffee. Beautiful tower of glass and gold, but never seen one anywhere else…
The toddy cold process coffee makers do a passable job at extraction. But, obviously miss out on some of the fun element. I’d encourage anyone who hasn’t tried cold process coffee to give it a whirl–no bitterness at all, and it tastes the way coffee smells. The extracts are quite powerful, however, so put a little in a tumbler and fill it up the rest of the way with milk.
I’m still looking for those artisinal espresso bars here in Boston–there are one or two, but our mass transit system makes it take an hour just to go to these.
I admit to the mediocrity. It’s a shame, I know. However you did hit the nail on the head why i will walk away from a good place–comic book guy syndrome. My experience has constantly been one of snobbery when it comes to looking for good coffee. Whether a friend praising Kona above all, or my brother (a barrista) looking down his nose at my moka.
So the main draw for me: a place to sit, and fun barristas. Sad, but true, I’ve managed to find both at bux and peet’s.
Anyone know good places in Beantown?
This has been really interesting stuff on coffee, but your inability to write a post without sounding elitist and taking digs at culture, the government, etc is getting really old. And annoying.
No offense but this stuff is being written for a blog…hes not writing for the The Economist and there were no claims that he was an unbiased reporter.
Heres a hint: if you’re annoyed by the author’s writing style, level (or not) of elitism, digs at culture and government, then don’t read the articles.
The cold process edAg mentioned sounds pretty interesting. Got any more info on that one?
edAg, Caleb - I’ve had a lot of toddy coffee, but not heard of this Dutch device. I’ll ask around.
Great series on coffee. I don’t think your tone is verging into comic book guy territory. I think you’re doing a great job of putting forth good info (and links) and helpful personal experience. Keep up the good work (but stop making me feel so bad about my blade grinder…). I’m inspired to dust off the Bodium press I haven’t used in years.
Yeah, the thing with elitism resonates with me. Here’s where I am with my coffee experience: Currently I buy my coffee beans from a small roaster/company here in Memphis (Ugly Mug Coffee). I like supporting a local business and frankly I like the taste of a couple of their blends. I have a cheap little burr grinder and a decent drip machine to make my brew in. Nothing fancy or extreme, but I feel that I get a good cup out of it. I look forward and enjoy my time making and drinking this coffee.
But… I put sugar & cream in my coffee. I just like it better that way! I was telling this to coworker recently (a SERIOUS coffee geek) and when I mentioned I don’t drink it black, well I might as well have been toting it in a Scooby Doo thermos on my way to kindergarten recess. Man did he turn up his nose at me. (Admittedly the dude’s not very cool to begin with…) So for those of you really into the stuff, please try not to be the Comic Book dude to those of us early in our coffee journeys. :)
Re-reading my comment, I realize it’s a little obnoxious. Just wanted to apologize to Tonx for my harshness. Keep the coffee goodness coming.
As for Jason’s comment, should we only comment when we agree with the poster?
Covert7-
No matter what coffee I drink I use cream and sugar. The old stomach just can’t take black coffee anymore. I’m not ashamed of it…its the way I have to drink coffee and the way I like it.
The guy at work is a zealot. Ignore him and drink your coffee the way you enjoy it.
I may be the “head CoffeeGeek” over at CoffeeGeek.com but I’m not ashamed or afraid to say that I often enjoy milk and/or sugar in my coffee and espresso.
But there’s a caveat to all this.
I get to try really, really good coffee, almost every day. I’m very blessed by this. And because I get to try some of the world’s best coffees every day, I get to enjoy them “naked” as in black, no additives, brewed with sometimes excruciating care and attention - drip, vacpot, mokapot, aeropress, presspot, cold drip, espresso, you name it.
BUT… the caveat - I fully appreciate how coffee morphs and changes with additives - maybe some of the more purer-additives out there - really good quality cream, and interesting sugars (I try everything from 100% fructose to belgian pearl sugars and everything in between).
I’ve had some simply amazing coffees straight up that, once some cream is added, take on a whole new persona and taste profile. Ditto on adding sugar. And every morning, I enjoy my nice 5oz americano with a bit of sugar and cream - it’s my morning ritual.
When introducing quality coffees to guests, my typical method is press pot brewed, and I place the following in front of them: a 6oz (or 8oz) cup of brew with enough headroom for additives, a little creamer, some cubed or other interesting sugar, spoons, and an espresso cup with more coffee in it. I say this (pointing at the big cup) is for however you enjoy coffee. This (pointing at the 2oz in an espresso cup) is to try the coffee straight.
More often than not, people will keep the big cup black after trying the small espresso cup. Not out of snobbery or any worry about “disappointing” me their host - but because they’ve just discovered how culinary and good coffee can be, and they want to continue on that road.
JF:
don’t quit. Evolve and brew your own.
Thanks for the “reassurance” guys on the sugar and cream stuff! I must say that I haven’t really thought about trying various sugars out but now that it’s been mentioned, that sounds like another fun way of mixing things up. Experiments for the weekend!
I don’t see this article as professing from an elitise stand point. Nor do I see it as an article about coffee itself. I believe it is more about the cultural and social obtacles that prevent a great majority of coffee drinkers from experiencing a level and quality and enjoyment that is so easilly accessable. It dosn’t take much marketing presure to keep people inside of a comfort zone that they are little willing to step out of to begin with. Quite the opposite of elitism, the “fringe” people refered to are trying to deliver a message to all of the caffeine maintanence drinkers that coffee can be so good that you just don’t care about the caffeine anymore. Inviting everyone to the party is hardly an elitist value.
Covert7-
Mark Prince (the Mark above..head CoffeeGeek) just rocks. Listen to the podcast if you don’t already….great source of information!
Jason
Tonx, just wanted to say that I’ve enjoyed your posts this week. Personally, I don’t really like coffee. I think it’s bitter and when you get down to it, it’s just hot bean water, and I don’t really get all the fuss, or people who HAVE to have their cup every morning. BUT, I’ve enjoyed your writing style and ability, and I’m able to enjoy it on the same level I enjoy watching Alton Brown…I’m not much of a cook, but I like learning why things work, and the specifics and ins-and-outs of things. So, just wanted to say I’ve enjoyed it despite my complete lack of interest in the subject, I wasn’t planning on visiting the site much this week since it was all coffee, and Joel wasn’t going to be writing as much, but I’ve kept coming back every day. So anyway, good work.